How to choose and use Interfacing
If you have never purchased interfacing for dressmaking it can be a rather confusing subject.
Interfacing is an extra layer of fabric applied to the inside of a garment in order to give it some strength and stability. It is normally used on cuffs, collars, shoulder areas and waistbands to add structure and stop the fabric from being floppy.
You can buy interfacing specifically for your fabric and it comes as either iron on or no-iron on. Iron on interfacing is especially good for beginner dressmakers as once ironed into place it doesnt shift about when sewing the layers under your sewing machine. It is suitable for most fabrics made from natural materials, ie cotton and linen. Iron on (or fusible) interfacing is not suitable for any fabrics with a knapp, like velvet, cordurouy or fur because it will crush them. It’s also unsuitable for sequinned fabric, vinyls and metallics because they are not designed to have direct heat applied to them or for lace or scrim because the nature of the open weave fabric means that glue will always seep out through the other side. These fabrics are far more suited to a sew in interfacing as it will not affect the drape nearly as much. Sew in interfacings are only normally used by professional dressmakers, along with linen interfacings that are used by tailors to add structure to coats and jackets.
Once you have decided on sew in or press in interfacing, you need to make a decision on the type. Most popular is a non woven interfacing because it has no grain and is therefore suited to virtually any fabric. However if you are sewing jersey, you will need a stretch fabric so that the garment retains its flexibility. The basic rule is to match the interfacing so that its qualities are almost identical to the fabric that you are working with. Indeed very lightweight summer cottons can get by with another piece of the fabric used as the structure layer. Interfacing also comes in a dark, charcoal shade and a creamy white and again, you need to match the colour, as far as possible to the colour of the cloth you are cutting.
To use iron on interfacing, first do a test on a scrap of fabric to see how it behaves, ie wrinkles, shrinks etc.
Lay the cut fabric wrong side up on an ironing board then place the interfacing shiny side down on top of it. The shiny side has the glue on it. Lay a damp pressing cloth over the top and gently lay on the iron, just using the weight and a pressing action. Don’t move the iron around as this may disturb the layers of fabric. Allow the everything to cool slightly then check to see if it’s adhered by trying to lift a corner. Once in place it is not repositionable so make sure everything is accurate before you start. Always use a wool setting for pressing unless it’s a really lightweight fabric in which case you can turn the iron up a little higher and never skip using a pressing cloth as it diffuses the direct heat and protects the fabric as well as the iron.
Ever come across the term Half Panama and wondered what on earth it means or is referring to?
However, this fabric has been included in many modern design ideas and is also now used for a wide range of things including cushion covers, curtains, curtain lining, upholstery and can be used to give decorative touches in interior design and many other things. Some tickings have a wider width, making them useful for items where you don’t want a join, such as bed covers or tablecloths. The classic ticking design now comes in many more colours and can be found in a range of weights allowing its uses to be almost endless but still giving that classic simple look that is very effective.
The word “drop” when referring to curtains or net curtains simply means the total length of the curtain from top to bottom.
Net curtains usually hang on a curtain wire or a pole. They are made with a channel at the top which the wire or pole passes through, or a series of holes for a cafe net curtain. The drop is measured from just above the wire or pole to the window sill, or wherever you want the curtain to finish. Usually net curtains are hung close against the window within the reveal so they usually finish just above the window sill in order to give privacy. Net curtains are made in a range of standard drops and so usually you will choose the nearest drop available that is smaller than your measurement to buy. If this would be too small, you can order the next larger drop and either cut down the net curtain, making a new channel or fold over the top to make it a little smaller.
Look out for this useful stuff in our shops! Fray Check is a colourless liquid that stops fraying by reinforcing the fibres.It can be used to prolong the life of garments by reinforcing stressed areas like button holes, seams, collars and cuffs against the wear of day-to-day use. For more creative projects, Fray Check can be used when sewing curves to seal the edges, to give rolled seams a stable finish, or to seal the edges of fabric for craft projects like motifs. The finish is washable, and can be repeated if needed.
If you are looking for a last minute present, or would like to jazz up some bottles you are giving, why not make one of these useful bottle carriers, which will go on to be used for carrying bottles back from the shops for years to come.
First I cut out my pieces – 2 of 26cm wide by 32cm high for the front and back, 1 of 16cm wide by 90cm long for the gusset and 2 of 18cm wide by 20cm high plus 1 of 21cm wide by 20cm high. These last 3 pieces form the inside of the bag which keeps the 6 bottles separate.
Cut and stitch on bias binding on the top edge of all 3 inside pieces. These inside pieces then need to be ironed to form creases as shown – at the centre of the two smaller pieces and to divide the wider piece roughly into thirds, allowing a small seam allowance on the two ends. With the water resistant fabric you will need to use a cloth when ironing to avoid melting the water resistant coating onto your iron!
Cut the bag strapping into two pieces and pin the first one to one side of the bag AT THE SAME TIME pinning through the edges of the first two flaps of the bag inside. 
The flap will be attached to the front when you sew through the inner edge of your bag handle. Be careful when you sew to keep all the other flaps out of the way, and sew all the way up both edges of the bag strapping. Repeat for the second side of the bag with the two back flaps of the bag inside. This should then leave the two edge flaps ready to attach to the gusset. 
Pin each flap to the middle of one side of the gusset and sew. You now have all the pieces attached together and all that is left is to sew the edges with the bias binding to finish the bag.
Pin the binding round, attaching the gusset to the front and back of the bag. You will need to make a small snip in the gusset at the corners to help this work. Sew the bias binding on, making sure you have trapped both sides of the binding, especially at the corners. 
I did two rows of stitching to make sure and it was a bit fiddly! My bag is finished and I have a hand made present to fill with lovely fruit juices from the local farm shop.
In sewing, piping is a type of trim, or embellishment. It is made from a strip of fabric that is folded in half over a piece of piping cord then sewn down the edge. It can then be added to seams of cushions, garments, upholstery pieces to act as decoration, or to define edges. Piping can add those finishing touches to your piece of sewing. The small strip of fabric used in the piping is usually cut on the bias. Cutting fabric on the bias is done as the fabric becomes easier to bend around corners avoiding puckering of the fabric. 
of different colours, these are available at both our shops in Bridport Dorset and Yeovil Somerset.
